Castello di Gabbiano in Val di Pesa. Photo credit Adam Levy
I was fortunate enough to be invited to a wine-tasting dinner on Canal Street in New York, where Chinatown and Little Italy meet. Unbeknownst to me, I was seated next to veteran winemaker Federico Cerelli of Castello di Gabbiano, one of the largest wine producers of Chianti Classico in the heart of Tuscany.
Castello di Gabbiano is located in Val di Pesa, just 22 kilometers from Florence. The castle’s imposing square tower, built in the 11th century to defend the crucial communication route between Florence and Siena, watches over what has become one of Chianti Classico’s most important wine estates, encompassing more than 370 acres of 100 percent certified sustainable vineyards.
The History of Castello di Gabbiano
Castello di Gabbiano dates back to 1124. Photo credit Adam Levy
The story of Castello di Gabbiano begins in 1124, when the Bardi family, influential Florentine bankers, constructed the first cellars within the castle walls. Wine production at this site dates back to 1480, making it one of Tuscany’s oldest continuously operating wine estates. Today, Castello di Gabbiano is part of Treasury Wine Estates, which has invested greatly in both upgrading and maintaining the historic vineyard.
A view of Tuscan vineyards. Photo credit Adam Levy
The Chianti Classico region is one of Italy’s most distinctive wine regions. The forests not only provide scenic beauty but also crucial microclimates that cool nearby vineyards. The estate’s clay and limestone, along with mild winters and rainfall, provide moisture during the intense Tuscan summers, giving the Sangiovese grapes time to properly ripen.
Federico Cerelli: Blending Tradition and Modern Technique
Head winemaker Federico Cerelli. Photo credit Adam Levy
Since 2011, my now-new friend Federico Cerelli has served as Castello di Gabbiano’s head winemaker and the creative force behind the estate’s modern renaissance. A Tuscan native from Bucine, Cerelli brings both deep regional knowledge and international experience to his craft.
Though he learned about winemaking from his grandfather, Cerelli today employs modern technology by reducing excessive wood aging and extraction that characterized earlier generations while maintaining the wines’ authentic territorial character, as all wines are aged in the ancient cellars below the Castello.
Tasting Notes
The estate’s entry-level Chianti Classico has a medium body with lively acidity and berry flavors that pair well with most foods. The Riserva comes from the oldest vineyards with more mature vines. Its time in the barrel helps give it its balance of spices and fruit. The Bellezza, meaning “beauty,” comes from a 17-hectare single vineyard at 400 meters in elevation, and the grape selection process for this wine limits production to 15,000 to 20,000 bottles per year. The wine is aged for more than three years in barrels made from wood that comes from the vineyard itself.
Visiting Castello di Gabbiano
Castello di Gabbiano’s modern tasting room. Photo credit Adam Levy
After our dinner in New York, Federico extended an invitation to visit the winery at a later date for a true Tuscan experience. The castle operates as a boutique hotel with 11 rooms and suites, plus self-contained apartments in a nearby 16th-century farmhouse. The estate’s restaurant, Il Cavaliere, serves traditional Tuscan cuisine, including handmade fresh pasta, grilled meats, and local cured meats and cheeses, all paired with the castle’s wines. I strongly recommend tasting the vinegar that sits on every table in the restaurant.
Visitors can also enjoy wine tastings in the castle cellars and walk through the vineyards with knowledgeable guides who share the history of the vineyard and castle. For wine lovers visiting Tuscany, this estate is a must-stop destination.
